In this article

Preparing flatfish Filleting Skinning Cooking

Flatfish varieties Dover sole Flounder Halibut

Lemon sole Plaice Turbot Other flatfish

Gutting and trimming

Most flatfish have already been gutted when sold, so trimming the fish usually only involves cutting away the fins and removing the head behind the gills.

Fillet by slicing the body along the backbone from head to tail. The backbone in fish usually runs along the midline of the body. Start just below the head. Slide the knife closely down the bones from the backbone to the sides. Lift away the first fillet and repeat on the other side. Repeat the process for the two fillets on the opposite side of the body.

A similar process can be used to create pouches in the fish for stuffing. Simply stop short of cutting the fillets off the body. Use scissors and a knife to remove the bones, then stuff.

To skin fillets hold the tail end and pass a knife between fillet and skin. To skin whole fish cut through the tail end of the fish to the skin. Then, using your fingers, pull the fish away from the skin, working from tail to head. Use a knife to cut the skin at the head.

Remember, most fish cooks quickly, and shouldn't be overcooked or it'll lose flavour.

One of the kings among fish is definitely the Dover sole. It has a delicate flavour and its flesh is lightly textured (not 'meaty') but firm enough to hold together when you cut into it. Available all year in Europe, this great fish can be bought whole or in fillets. If you buy it whole, ask the fishmonger to skin it. Keep the bones and head, even if you ask for it filleted, to make fish stock. Though this fish suits many recipes, it's best cooked whole: grilled, fried or served à la meunière (a sauce of browned butter, parsley and lemon juice). Fillets are also available and good with recipes which include sauce. Cook on the bone for extra flavour.

Flounders include the European flounder or fluke, which doesn't have a good reputation for flavour. In contrast, summer and winter flounder are better regarded. Buy whole or in fillets. Cook slimmer flounders as you would a Dover sole. Thicker flounder can be cooked along the same lines as a turbot.

A similar-tasting but cheaper version of turbot, halibut can grow to a massive 2m (6ft) long. Halibut is available all year. Young halibut is the best, but steaks, fillets and cutlets are all available from larger fish. It tends to lose texture if frozen. Keep halibut moist while cooking: do this by cooking in sauce. Good rich sauces for this fish include hollandaise, parsley and lobster.

A tasty fish, 'lemon sole' is a misnomer since it's neither a real sole, nor does it taste of lemon. It is in fact a variety of plaice. It's available all year as fillets or whole fish. Cook as you would a Dover sole, or fry after coating with egg and crumbs.

Recognisable by the orange spots on its upper side, plaice has soft flesh and a delicate flavourand is available to buy whole or in fillets all year round. Good coated in egg and breadcrumbs and grilled or fried in batter like the chip-shop mainstay, and tasty if poached in milk and served with cheese sauce. Plaice cooks very quickly - it should only need a total cooking time of four to five minutes, fried or poached.

Along with Dover sole, turbot is one of the great fish. It's expensive, but the flesh is tasty and firm. Available all year in fillets, steaks and to buy whole. If the flesh has a hint of blue the fish is stale. Good poached or grilled with a simple parsley or hollandaise sauce. Turbot kettles are used to cook whole fish.

Other notable flatfish include the brill, the dab, the megrim and the curiously named witch. All are available through autumn and winter; brill is available all year. Buy whole or as fillets. With the exception of brill, these aren't the greatest tasting fish, but you may find they're cheaper. Cook brill as you would a halibut, sole or turbot. Dab is good grilled, or crumbed and fried. Megrim can be made into fish soup, or eaten as fried breadcrumbed fillets. Witch should be cooked similarly to sole but with more seasoning.